Nail Allergies pt. 2-Is HEMA-free a scam and how does this affect you?

Welcome back to part 2 of the Nail Allergies series. If you're still here that means you value nail education (yay!) If you haven't read part 1 yet head over there right now! (click me). Whether you're a seasoned nail tech, beginner tech, diy-er, or client I'm SO excited you're continuing with me on this educational series. In the last blog we touched on the 5 main reasons why nail allergies occur. Two of the biggest reasons being overexposure and ingredients. Now, let's follow those up with how this affects you as a client or nail tech, how it plays into the various costs of nail services/products, and why you should think twice before buying into the HEMA-free marketing boom.

As I started out in part 1, I briefly mentioned how ALL nail products are chemicals, even if you are buying the ones labeled as non-toxic, 9-free, HEMA-free, etc. Just because a brand markets their products as healthier does not change the fact that nail products are still chemicals, even if some of those chemicals are removed.

When these chemicals are not used correctly that is usually when nail allergies start, with the exception of factoring in nail ingredients. What do I mean by used incorrectly? Well, this is why you need to read part 1 first! While some brands are easily purchased without proof of licensing, others require a certificate, and in addition to this, some brands even require training/certification directly with their company prior to purchasing. Why does this matter to you? It all comes down to quality (and even bang for your buck). The higher quality the nail product, the more training required to use it, the higher the investment (& longer wear time), and the less likely you are to develop a nail allergy.

Going into something controversial here, you may have heard of HEMA-free? Well, before you literally buy into that it is important to understand what this truly means. For starters, HEMA-free does NOT equal hypoallergenic. That's right, you can still experience an allergic nail reaction with a HEMA-free nail product. Here's why:

Hema is a type of monomer found in nail products. Being allergic to HEMA typically means you are allergic to an additional ingredient within the nail products you are using since monomer requires the use of another ingredient to become reactive. As I always urge clients to do, the only true way to know exactly what you are allergic to is to visit a dermatologist. Also note, HEMA is found in many other items, so being allergic to this alone would mean you are also allergic to other non-nail related products such as those found in the dental and medical fields. It is also essential to understand that once a nail allergy develops you will have it for life. Ultimately this could lead to major consequences down the road including, but not limited to, other life essentials such as needing a medical service that contains HEMA! (Which is why the pro community is so big on advocating for nail diy-ers education.)

HEMA, or monomer, being a lower quality (ie: cheaper) ingredient makes it ideal to use in less expensive nail products that you can buy for less on places like Amazon. This means that some brands are loading their products with higher concentrations of monomer than recommended and should be avoided. (whoa!) Now, if a dermatologist rules that you do have a HEMA allergy, then by all means proceed with all HEMA-free products (remember HEMA is not only used in the nail industry.) HEMA is also a gateway allergen meaning once you develop an allergy to HEMA, you are also already allergic to other nail ingredients and likely t0 develop even more allergies. Annnnnd, once a HEMA allergy is fully developed, it will be difficult to find a nail alternative (this includes press ons w/glue, sorry friend). For purchasing reasons, stay away from products that contain concentrations higher than 35% of monomer, which I would also like to highlight is banned altogether in Europe.

Monomers such as HEMA are thin (small molecules), therefore more easily absorbed into the skin. Generic nail brands that do not require licensing to purchase are watered down with these molecules making them cheaper to purchase and come with the highest allergy risk. See where this is taking us? I'm going to get real scientific in part 3 of this series as we finish off with a thorough understanding of nail ingredients including oligomers, acrylates, viscosities, how this all adds up to avoiding allergies and so much more! So, if you're interested in the chemical breakdown of nail products and their ingredients even further you will love the next blog post.

Last, but not least, we have to touch on costs. As mentioned earlier, the cheaper the product, the more diy-ers and beginners techs will purchase them, and the higher the risk of allergies. Here's what needs to be universally understood: higher quality, longer-lasting, hypoallergenic products and services require a higher investment upfront than standard services/products. Compare this to buying organic at the grocery store. Is it more costly upfront? Yes. Does it come with benefits? Almost always. The same is true for nail services. For those of us who have niched down and sought out specialized training, we invest more into the products we purchase for YOU while needing to cover OUR investment of the products and specialized training. In other words, we are offering you the best of the best because we care about your health and safety.

My Ultimate point for the nail community to understand is that buying HEMA-free products may not solve your allergy problems (and may end up wasting your money) without true knowledge of what HEMA-free actually is. So, what is the true, true culprit of nail allergies? Well, this is why you have to stick around for part 3.

If you're looking for true hypoallergenic, high quality nail products, join me over at part 3 of this nail allergy series as we dive even deeper into nail ingredients and uncover the world of European and Japanese nail products. (hint: they are the highest quality in the nail industry) Especially if you are a nail tech or client who wants the best of the best, this one is for you! Let's further that nail education together. See you at part 3 and don't forget to say HI! @erikakristinebeauty on Instagram & TikTok where the video series will be posted!

TAKE CARE BABES!